Bay laurel is not an herb you can rush. It grows at the pace of a tree, because that's what it is — a Mediterranean evergreen that can reach fifteen feet in the ground and live for decades. Most gardeners north of zone 8 grow it as a container plant that spends summers outside and winters in a garage or bright basement, and that arrangement works, but it requires a different kind of commitment than growing basil or parsley. You're not raising a crop; you're maintaining a slow-moving that may not yield usable leaves for a year and a half after you bring it home.
The most common mistake is overwatering. Bay comes from a climate with dry summers and occasional winter rains, and it adapted by developing a root system that resents sitting in damp soil. In a pot, that means drainage holes that actually drain, and a with plenty of grit or perlite worked in. Water when the top two inches of soil are dry, and err on the side of letting it get a little drier than you think it should. A bay laurel that gets watered on the same schedule as a tomato will develop root rot — the leaves turn yellow from the base up, and by the time you notice, the damage is often done.
Winter storage matters more than summer care. A bay laurel can tolerate a light frost, but sustained freezing kills it. In cold climates, bring the container indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below 28 degrees. It doesn't need a heated room — an unheated garage with a window, a cool mudroom, or a basement with grow lights will keep it alive. The plant tends to drop some leaves in the transition; that's normal. What kills bay indoors is either overwatering in the low light or letting it dry out completely because no one remembers to check it.
Fresh bay leaves are more bitter and camphoraceous than dried ones. The flavor mellows and concentrates as the leaves dry, which is why most recipes call for dried bay. If you're harvesting your own, pick mature leaves — dark green, leathery, at least six months old — and lay them flat on a counter or in a paper bag for a week. Once they're brittle, they're ready to store.
Bay laurel grows slowly enough that pruning is more about shaping than controlling size. You can keep a potted bay as a small shrub or train it into a standard with a single trunk and a rounded crown. Either way, prune in late spring after the plant has started putting on new growth. Hard pruning tends to stress the plant; take no more than a third of the growth in any one season.
In mild climates where bay can stay in the ground year-round, it becomes a different plant — denser, larger, and more resilient. It can handle lean soil, drought, and neglect once established, and the harvest becomes large enough that you can dry branches at a time and keep them in jars for a year or more. In those zones, bay is one of the most reliable perennial herbs you can grow.
Varieties worth knowing
What can go wrong
Companions
How to propagate
Bay laurel is notoriously slow to propagate by any method. Semi-hardwood stem cuttings are the preferred approach for home gardeners, though they require patience and rooting hormone. Seed germination is extremely slow and erratic.
Harvest & keep
Evergreen perennial (Zone 8+) or container plant overwintered indoors. Slow to grow; harvest lightly the first 2 years.
- Refrigerator
- 2–3 weeks fresh in a bag
- Freeze
- freeze whole leaves in a bag — retains more flavor than drying
- Can
- not applicable
- Dry
- dry flat in a single layer for 1–2 weeks — the classic form; flavor lasts 1 year
Dried bay loses potency after about a year — replace annually for best flavor.
How it grows where you live
Sources
- Growing bay laurel— Oregon State University Extension
- Bay laurel in the landscape— UC Master Gardener Program
- Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis)— NC State Extension