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flower · Malvaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Hollyhock

Alcea rosea

The six-foot spike at the back of the border that defines the cottage garden — and the rust-prone leaves that come with it.

Hollyhock

A hollyhock is a two-year commitment. You plant a seed in spring or early summer, and that first season it produces a low rosette of rounded leaves. It overwinters as that rosette — the taproot goes deep — and the following summer it sends up a flower spike that can reach six or seven feet, covered in blooms that open from the bottom up over the course of weeks. If you want flowers this year, buy a second-year plant from a nursery. If you have patience, sow seed and wait.

The unavoidable problem is hollyhock rust. By midsummer in most climates, the lower leaves develop orange pustules on the undersides, and the leaves yellow and drop. It rarely kills the plant, but it looks terrible. The spores overwinter on plant debris, so pulling off affected leaves and clearing the bed in fall can slow the spread, but in humid climates the disease tends to return every year. The practical solution is to plant hollyhocks where something shorter — phlox, catmint, a low shrub — will mask the bottom third of the plant.

Hollyhocks are deeply taprooted once established, which means they tolerate dry spells better than many border but also means they resent being moved. them young if you must transplant them at all, and do it in early spring before the taproot has gone too deep. A hollyhock moved in full leaf will sulk and may not recover.

The flowers attract bees and hummingbirds, and the Japanese beetle if you have them. The beetles chew ragged holes in the blooms and can strip a spike in a few days if the infestation is heavy. Hand-picking in the morning when they're sluggish is the most effective control for a small planting.

Hollyhocks self-sow readily if you let the seed heads dry on the stalk, and the seedlings that come up the following spring tend to be hardier than anything you deliberately plant. The colors may not come true if you're growing a mix, but that is part of the cottage-garden charm — a stand of hollyhocks that reseeds itself year after year, in a slightly different arrangement each time, feels more rooted in the place than a carefully planned border ever does.

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Varieties worth knowing

Chater's Double Mix
Fully double blooms in a wide color range. The classic English cottage-garden strain, often exceeding six feet.
Nigra
Single blooms in a deep maroon that reads almost black in certain light. Striking against pale stone or white siding.
Majorette Mix
A dwarf strain reaching only two to three feet. Less prone to wind damage and useful for the middle of the border rather than the back.
Halo Cerise
Single pink blooms with a white eye. Vigorous and somewhat more rust-resistant than older strains.
Indian Spring
Large single flowers in shades of pink and white. Tends to bloom the first year if started early indoors.
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What can go wrong

Hollyhock rust
Orange pustules on the undersides of leaves, yellowing, and leaf drop by midsummer. A fungal disease carried by wind and water splash. Remove affected leaves promptly, clear debris in fall, and plant hollyhocks behind shorter companions that will hide the lower foliage.
Japanese beetles
Metallic green beetles that chew ragged holes in blooms and foliage. Hand-pick in early morning when they're slow-moving, or use row cover during peak beetle season in July.
Wind damage
Tall spikes snap in strong winds, especially when in full bloom. Stake individual stems or plant in a sheltered spot near a wall or fence.
No bloom in year one
Hollyhocks are biennial — they produce only leaves the first year and bloom the second. If you want flowers this season, buy second-year plants or choose a variety like Indian Spring that may bloom from an early indoor sowing.
Transplant failure
Established hollyhocks have deep taproots and resent being moved. Transplant only in early spring when plants are small, or accept that moved plants may not recover.
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Companions

Plant with
rosesphloxdelphiniumfoxgloveechinacea
Keep apart
fennelother Malvaceae (mallow family plants share rust susceptibility)
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How to propagate

Hollyhock is a biennial or short-lived perennial grown almost exclusively from seed. It self-sows readily, and once you have hollyhocks in the garden, you will likely always have them.

From seed
easy80-90% success rate
Direct sow outdoors in mid to late summer for blooms the following year, or start indoors 8-10 weeks before last frost for possible first-year blooms.
Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in their permanent location, as hollyhocks develop a deep taproot and resent transplanting. Space 18-24 inches apart against a wall or fence for wind protection. Seeds germinate in 10-14 days. For indoor starts, use deep pots to accommodate the taproot and transplant before plants become rootbound. Allow seed heads to mature and drop for natural reseeding.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
1–3 flower spikes per plant (biennial/short-lived perennial)
Peak window
4 weeks

Biennial or short-lived perennial — self-seeds. Rust is the main problem; strip lower leaves.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
3–5 days cut
Freeze
not applicable
Can
not applicable
Dry
petals dry for tea and dyeing; flowers lose form

Black hollyhock petals make a lovely tea and natural dye.

Connected
Native range: Southwestern Asia (likely Turkey and adjacent regions)
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.