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flower · Tropaeolaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Nasturtium

Tropaeolum majus

An edible flower and trap crop that thrives on neglect and rich soil actually hurts.

Nasturtium

Nasturtium makes the same mistake many gardeners do — it responds to rich soil by putting on an impressive show of foliage while forgetting the point. In a heavily or fertilized bed, you may end up with a dense, lush mat of round green leaves and almost no flowers. The plant is not sick; it's just comfortable. Planted in a lean, average spot — the strip along a path, the edge of a gravel bed, the corner that never gets — it will flower generously all season.

The seeds are large and easy to handle, which makes nasturtiums one of the better plants for . Sow them at your , about half an inch deep, and expect in 7 to 12 days once the soil is above 60°F. They don't like root disturbance, so if you're , keep the cells undisturbed and move them promptly. Trailing varieties like Empress of India can spread 2 to 3 feet; compact types like Jewel Mix and Alaska stay under 12 inches. Plan spacing accordingly.

The entire plant is edible. Leaves, flowers, and the unripe seed pods are all used in the kitchen. The flavor is peppery, similar to watercress — the flowers less so than the leaves, and the leaves less so than the seeds. Pickled nasturtium seeds are sometimes used as a caper substitute. The flowers are useful as a garnish or in salads, though the flavor is strong enough that a few go a long way. For harvest, pick flowers in the morning before heat sets in.

As a trap crop, nasturtiums have a genuine and observable function: black bean aphids in particular seem to prefer nasturtium foliage to cucumbers, squash, and brassicas planted nearby. This doesn't eliminate aphids from the garden, but it can concentrate them on the nasturtium, where you can deal with them in one place rather than chasing them across multiple crops. If the nasturtium becomes heavily infested, cut the affected stems off and dispose of them rather than leaving the aphid colonies to spread.

Nasturtiums are killed by frost but self-sow readily in most climates. The seeds are large and visible, so it's easy to collect them — harvest the round, wrinkled seeds as they form and dry on the plant, and store them in a paper envelope in a cool place. Or let some scatter on their own and see where they show up the following spring. In mild-winter zones, the plant can sometimes behave as a short-lived .

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Varieties worth knowing

Jewel Mix
Compact, bushy habit. Bright orange, yellow, and red flowers over a mound of foliage. Good for containers and edging. A dependable all-around variety.
Empress of India
Deep scarlet flowers against nearly blue-green foliage. Trailing habit. One of the most striking-looking nasturtiums.
Alaska
Compact habit with cream-variegated foliage. Distinctive leaf pattern. Mixed flower colors. Useful where foliage interest is as important as the flowers.
Peach Melba
Pale cream to peach flowers with a dark center blotch. Softer color than most nasturtiums — good for pastel combinations.
Cherry Rose
Semi-trailing. Cherry and rose tones. Good sprawler for covering bare ground or cascading over a wall.
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What can go wrong

All leaves, no flowers
The plant is getting too much nitrogen from rich soil or fertilizer. Move nasturtiums to an unamended spot, or stop fertilizing entirely. This is the most common failure mode.
Heavy aphid infestation
Black bean aphids can colonize nasturtiums densely and quickly. If the plant is being used as a trap crop, cut and dispose of heavily infested stems. Don't compost aphid-laden material.
Caterpillars stripping foliage
Large caterpillars — often cabbage loopers — can eat through nasturtium foliage quickly. Hand-pick them in the evening, or apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) to affected plants.
Poor germination in cold soil
Seeds rot rather than germinate if sown into cold, wet soil. Nasturtiums need soil above 60°F. If your last frost date is in cold conditions, wait a week or two for the soil to warm.
Powdery mildew late in season
White coating on older leaves as nights cool in late summer. Common but generally cosmetic at that stage in the season. Good air circulation helps delay it.
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Companions

Plant with
cucumbersquashbrassicastomato
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How to propagate

Nasturtium has large, easy-to-handle seeds that make it an excellent direct-sow flower for beginners. It dislikes transplanting and performs best sown right where it will grow.

From seed
easy90%+ success rate
Direct sow outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Can also start indoors 2-4 weeks before last frost in peat pots to minimize root disturbance.
Sow the large seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, spacing 10-12 inches apart. Seeds germinate in 10-14 days. Nasturtium thrives in lean, poor soil — rich soil and fertilizer produce lush foliage but few flowers. If starting indoors, use biodegradable pots that can be planted directly to avoid disturbing the roots. Seeds can be soaked overnight to speed germination.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
many leaves, flowers, and seed pods per plant all summer
Peak window
12 weeks

Cut-and-come-again — leaves, flowers, and green seed pods are all edible.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
3–5 days (leaves and flowers)
Freeze
not recommended — texture collapses
Can
pickle the green seed pods and water-bath can — "poor man's capers"
Dry
flowers dry poorly; petals lose color

Peppery flavor — use in salads and for garnish. Pickled pods substitute for capers.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
Nasturtiums do well in the PNW's mild summers and are among the more reliable annuals in cool, overcast coastal conditions. They tend to sprawl enthusiastically in western Washington and Oregon's moderate summers. Aphid pressure can be high — the trap-crop function is genuinely useful in vegetable gardens here.
Mountain West
The dry, cool climate at elevation suits nasturtiums well and aphid pressure tends to be lower than in humid regions. Short growing seasons mean direct sowing right at last frost to maximize bloom time. Intense UV may cause some petal fading in very exposed sites.
Southwest
In desert climates, nasturtiums perform best in spring and fall. They tend to collapse in peak summer heat above 95°F. In Phoenix or Tucson, plant in early spring and again in September. Provide afternoon shade during the hottest months and water consistently.
Midwest
Solid summer annual for the Midwest. Direct sow at last frost when the soil is warming, and they'll bloom from midsummer through first frost. The compact Jewel Mix handles heat and thunderstorms reasonably well.
Northeast
A reliable performer in the Northeast once summer warmth arrives. Sow at last frost, expect a few weeks' wait while the soil warms. In the humid Mid-Atlantic, powdery mildew appears by late August but doesn't usually cut the season short. Alaska's variegated foliage holds its pattern well in the Northeast's moderate summers.
Southeast
In the Southeast, nasturtiums do best as a spring annual before summer heat arrives. They can struggle above 90°F, producing fewer flowers and wilting by midday. In coastal and mountain areas of the Southeast, they may hang on through summer if given afternoon shade. A fall planting in zones 8–9 can produce good blooms.
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Sources

Native range: Andes (Peru)
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.