White-tailed Deer

• Large, ragged bite damage on foliage — deer tear rather than cut cleanly
• Tall plants stripped from the top down, with the highest reachable growth gone
• Whole transplants may be pulled out or eaten to the ground overnight
• Hoof prints in soft soil or dew-covered grass near the damage
• Stems sometimes stripped of bark or bent from antler rubbing

White-tailed deer are active year-round and tend to be most damaging from late spring through fall when the garden is producing. Deer are creatures of habit — they will return to the same garden on the same routes, often nightly, once they've found a reliable food source. Urban and suburban deer can lose much of their fear of people, making deterrents less effective over time.

1. 01Fencing is the most reliable long-term solution: an 8-foot solid fence, or two parallel 4-foot fences 3 feet apart (deer can't jump height and width simultaneously)
2. 02Electric fence with a peanut-butter-baited wire at deer nose height can be effective with regular re-baiting
3. 03Deer repellent sprays containing putrescent egg solids or predator urine can deter feeding when applied consistently — reapply after rain
4. 04Surround the garden with strongly scented plants: lavender, Russian sage, catmint — though hungry deer may eventually ignore them
5. 05Motion-activated sprinklers can startle deer away at night
6. 06Vary deterrent methods: deer adapt to any single approach over time

If deer pressure is severe and fencing is not practical for your space, your local extension office or state wildlife agency can advise on permitted deterrents for your county — some methods require a permit or have local restrictions.

• Deer Management for Home Gardens— University of Maryland Extension
• Deer in the Garden— Penn State Extension