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herb · Lamiaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Rosemary

Salvia rosmarinus

A tender Mediterranean shrub that some climates can overwinter and most cannot.

Rosemary

Rosemary used to be classified as Rosmarinus officinalis; it was recently moved into the Salvia genus, which tells you something about its relationships but does nothing to change what it wants: full sun, gritty soil, minimal water, and temperatures that stay above about 10 to 15°F. In zones 7 and warmer, it can become a substantial shrub — four feet tall, woody at the base, covered in small blue flowers in late winter when almost nothing else is blooming. In zones 6 and colder, it's a container plant or an , and there's no shame in treating it that way.

The most common rosemary failure, even in mild climates, is not cold — it's poor drainage. A rosemary plant sitting in waterlogged soil will die slowly and look like a drought casualty: needles brown from the inside out, branches that snap instead of bend. The plant uses water in very small quantities, and its roots cannot tolerate sitting in wet for more than a day or two. Plant in raised beds, heavily with coarse grit, or grow in terracotta pots that breathe and dry out quickly.

Gardeners in zones 6 and colder can grow rosemary as an annual or bring it indoors for winter. Container plants need a pot at least 12 inches wide, a well-draining cactus or Mediterranean mix, and a south-facing window that gets six-plus hours of direct light. Indoors, the main problem shifts to spider mites: look for fine webbing and bronze-stippled needles in dry heated air. A weekly mist and good airflow help. Bring plants in before the first hard freeze — rosemary doesn't recover from a hard frost the way some woody herbs do.

The cold-hardiest variety available to most gardeners is Arp, which may survive mild zone 6 winters with good drainage and a sheltered south-facing wall. Hill Hardy is similar. Neither is reliably zone 6 — they are zone 6 possibilities, not zone 6 guarantees. If you lose one in January, it wasn't a management failure; you were at the edge of the range.

Harvest by cutting stem tips or side branches, never more than one-third of the plant at a time. Rosemary is slow-growing and does not recover quickly from heavy harvesting, especially in the first year. After two or three seasons, established shrubs can handle more aggressive cutting. The flavor is present year-round, but the oil concentration tends to peak in late spring and early fall, when growth slows and temperatures moderate.

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Varieties worth knowing

Tuscan Blue
Upright, vigorous, with broad, deep-green needles and vivid blue flowers. A classic culinary variety for zones 7 and warmer.
Arp
One of the hardiest rosemaries available. Can survive mild zone 6 winters in a protected spot. Lighter green needles, lemon-pine scent.
Hill Hardy
Developed in Texas for cold tolerance. Upright habit, good culinary flavor. Similar cold hardiness to Arp.
Blue Spires
Tall, strongly upright habit. Excellent for hedges in warm climates. Heavy blue flower set in late winter.
Prostratus
Trailing habit — cascades beautifully over walls and containers. Less cold-hardy than upright types. Good in zone 8 and warmer.
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What can go wrong

Root rot from wet soil
Needles brown from the center outward, wood becomes brittle, plant fails to revive after rain. Almost always a drainage problem. There is no recovery once root rot is established — prevent it by planting in gritty, raised, or container conditions.
Winter kill in zone 6 and colder
Even 'hardy' varieties like Arp are not reliably perennial in zone 6. Expect loss after a hard winter. Plant in the most sheltered, south-facing spot available, or keep a backup plant in a container indoors.
Spider mites on indoor plants
Fine webbing on stem tips, bronze-stippled needles, and general decline. Caused by dry indoor air in winter. Increase humidity, improve airflow, and wipe affected stems with a damp cloth. Severe infestations may need insecticidal soap.
Failure to root cuttings
Rosemary is propagated by stem cuttings, and success is not guaranteed. Take 4-inch cuttings from soft new growth in summer, strip the lower half of needles, and dip in rooting hormone. Mist daily. Even with good technique, expect 50-70% success.
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Companions

Plant with
brassicasbeancarrotsage
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How to propagate

Rosemary is almost always propagated from stem cuttings, which is the standard commercial and home method. Layering is an easy alternative for existing plants. Rosemary seed is slow and unreliable, so it is rarely used.

Stem cuttings
moderate50-70% success rate
Late spring to early summer for softwood cuttings, or late summer for semi-hardwood cuttings
Take 4-6 inch cuttings from healthy new growth, stripping the lower 2 inches of needles. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (IBA 1000-3000 ppm) and insert into a well-draining mix of perlite and peat. Maintain humidity but ensure good air circulation to prevent rot. Rooting takes 4-8 weeks. Rosemary cuttings are somewhat finicky — avoid overwatering and provide bottom heat if possible for better results.
Layering
easy80%+ success rate
Late spring to early summer
Bend a low, flexible branch down to the soil, strip leaves from a small section, and pin it to the ground with a wire staple. Cover the stripped portion with soil and keep moist. Roots form in 2-3 months. Sever from the parent plant and transplant once well-rooted. This is a reliable, no-fuss method for a plant or two.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
many cuttings per year from a mature plant
Peak window
26 weeks

Tender perennial (Zone 7+); overwinter indoors in cold zones. Woody shrub — prune lightly after bloom.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
1–2 weeks fresh
Freeze
freeze whole sprigs — holds flavor well
Can
not applicable
Dry
dry on a screen or dehydrator at 95°F — one of the best herbs dried

Strip leaves from woody stems — stems are bitter. Dry herbs keep 1+ year.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
West of the Cascades, rosemary can overwinter as a perennial in zones 7 and 8 — Portland and Seattle both support it in sheltered spots. The enemy is winter wet, not winter cold. Plant in the most elevated, driest spot in the garden. In zone 6 areas of the PNW, treat as a container plant.
Mountain West
Cold dry winters are a mixed bag. Cold is the obvious threat, but the dry air actually reduces some disease risk. Arp and Hill Hardy may overwinter in sheltered zone 6 spots at lower elevations. Container growing is the safer approach in most of the region.
Southwest
One of the best climates for rosemary. In zones 8–10, it grows into substantial shrubs and blooms heavily in winter. Water deeply but infrequently. In the low desert, plant in fall for establishment before summer heat.
Midwest
Treat as a container plant or annual in most of the Midwest. Hardy varieties like Arp may survive a zone 6 winter in a very protected spot, but expect loss in zones 5 and colder. Container plants overwinter well in a cold, bright garage or south-facing window.
Northeast
Rosemary is not reliably hardy anywhere in the Northeast except the very warmest zone 7 microclimates on Long Island or coastal Connecticut. In most of the region, treat as an annual or bring containers inside for the winter. A south-facing window is essential.
Southeast
Rosemary thrives in most of the Southeast. In zones 7 and 8, it can become a large shrub. In the humid Gulf Coast and Florida, the main challenge is summer disease from poor airflow — give plants generous spacing and avoid overhead irrigation.
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Sources

Connected
Native range: Mediterranean coast
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.