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vegetable · Brassicaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Cauliflower

Brassica oleracea

The brassica that will find every mistake you make — wrong temperature, wrong water, wrong day.

Cauliflower

Cauliflower is the most temperature-sensitive of the common brassicas. It needs a long stretch of cool weather — ideally between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit — to develop a tight, well-formed head. Too cold as a seedling and the plant may button, producing a tiny, unusable curd on a short stalk. Too warm as the head forms and the curd loosens, turns ricey, or browns within days. There is essentially no margin for error at the end of the season.

Start seeds indoors about six weeks before your , and out around the into well-prepared soil. Cauliflower is a heavy feeder — work a generous amount of into the bed, and with a balanced organic fertilizer three weeks after transplanting. A plant that stalls for lack of fertility will never fully recover. Fall plantings, timed to mature in cool autumn weather, are often more reliable than spring crops because the season is cooling rather than warming.

Most white cauliflower varieties need blanching — tying the outer leaves over the developing curd to shield it from sun. Exposure causes the white curd to turn yellow or purple and develop a stronger flavor. Check the developing curd daily once it reaches a few inches across; tie the leaves when the curd is about 2 inches wide and harvest 7 to 12 days later. Colored varieties like Cheddar (orange) and Graffiti (purple) do not need blanching and can be harvested based on size alone.

Buttoning is the failure mode that catches spring growers most often. It happens when a young transplant experiences prolonged temperatures below 40 degrees — the plant interprets this as a completed vernalization period and forms a small head prematurely. This produces a curd the size of a golf ball on an underdeveloped plant with no chance of recovery. Avoid transplanting weak or undersized seedlings into cold soil, and do not rush the planting date if a cold stretch is forecast.

Harvest when the curd is fully formed, tight, and still white (or the expected color for colored varieties). Once the surface starts to separate or turn granular, flavor and texture decline quickly. Cut the head with a few wrapper leaves still attached — they protect the curd during handling. In the refrigerator, an unwashed head keeps for about a week. Leave blanched heads in the garden too long and they will brown, loosen, and develop off flavors even in cool weather.

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Varieties worth knowing

Snowball Y
68 days
The standard open-pollinated white cauliflower. Compact, self-blanching tendency, reliable in cool springs. Matures around 68 days from transplant.
Cheddar
Bright orange curd from beta-carotene. No blanching needed. More heat-tolerant than white types. Flavor is mild and slightly nutty.
Disease resistance
downy mildew
Graffiti
80 days
Deep purple curd; the color holds better raw than cooked. No blanching needed. Striking in the garden and on the plate.
Romanesco
75–100 days
Technically closer to broccoli, but grouped here for its distinctive lime-green fractal curd. Nutty, dense flavor. Needs a long cool season — often better as a fall crop.
Amazing
A reliable hybrid with large, dome-shaped white heads. Self-wrapping leaves reduce the need for manual blanching. Well-adapted to a wide range of conditions.
Disease resistance
downy mildewblack rot
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What can go wrong

Buttoning — premature tiny curd formation
The plant forms a golf-ball-sized head on a short stalk with no further development. Caused by vernalization — young transplants exposed to temperatures below 40 degrees for an extended period. Avoid planting undersized transplants too early.
Curd browning
The white head turns yellow or brown from sun exposure. Blanch by tying outer leaves over the curd when it reaches 2 inches across, and check daily — heads can go from perfect to overripe in a few days.
Ricey or loose curd
The curd surface becomes granular and separated, with individual florets pulling apart. Caused by harvesting too late or by heat during curd development. Cut promptly when the surface is still smooth and tight.
Hollow stem
A water-filled cavity in the stalk indicates boron deficiency or excessively rapid growth from over-fertilization. More common in fast-maturing hybrids. Reduce nitrogen at the end of the season.
Cabbage worm damage
Small green caterpillars from the white cabbage butterfly bore into the developing curd. Unlike broccoli, cauliflower damage inside the head isn't visible until harvest. Row cover is the most effective prevention.
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Companions

Plant with
beetceleryonion
Keep apart
strawberrytomato
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How to propagate

Cauliflower is propagated by seed, typically started indoors and transplanted. It is one of the more temperamental brassicas, requiring consistent cool temperatures and even moisture to form good heads.

From seed
difficult70-80% success rate
Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost for spring crop, or in early to mid-summer for fall harvest
Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in cell trays at 65-75°F for germination in 5-10 days. Transplant out when seedlings have 4-5 true leaves, spacing 18-24 inches apart. Avoid any stress (drought, temperature extremes, root binding) as cauliflower may button or fail to form a proper head. For white varieties, blanch curds by tying outer leaves over the developing head when it reaches 2-3 inches across.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
1 head (1–3 lb)
Per sq. ft.
0.5–1 lb at 18-inch spacing

Blanch (tie leaves over head) on non-self-blanching varieties to keep curds white.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
1–2 weeks whole head in a bag
Freeze
blanch florets 3 minutes, freeze in bags
Can
pickle and water-bath can; otherwise pressure can only
Dry
not recommended

Brown spots are sun damage — still edible but cut off for presentation.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
Among the best climates for cauliflower in North America. Cool, overcast springs and long mild autumns give the plant exactly what it needs. Fall crops often produce excellent heads with little intervention.
Mountain West
Short, cool seasons can work well for cauliflower if timing is right. Fall crops are riskier due to early hard frosts. Romanesco is especially slow and may not finish before frost at high elevation.
Southwest
Grown as a winter crop from October transplants, harvesting January through March. Summer heat makes it impossible. Irrigation is critical — consistent moisture is harder to maintain in arid conditions.
Midwest
Spring windows are tight and unpredictable. Fall crops are generally more reliable. Choose fast-maturing hybrids like Amazing for spring, and cold-tolerant types for fall.
Northeast
Spring crops are workable but require precise timing. Fall plantings from late June or early July transplants tend to produce better heads as temperatures cool toward harvest.
Southeast
Primarily a fall and winter crop. Heat and humidity make spring production difficult. Plant transplants in September through October for winter harvest. Downy mildew can be a significant issue in wet falls.
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Sources

Connected
Native range: Mediterranean
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.