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vegetable · Brassicaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Collard Greens

Brassica oleracea

The heat-tolerant brassica that gets Southern gardens through the summer.

Collard Greens

Collard greens occupy a unique position in the brassica family — they tolerate heat that would spinach, kale, or bok choy in a week, yet they also survive hard freezes that would kill most other summer crops. This range makes them the default leafy green in Southern gardens and an underappreciated option in Northern ones. A plant that can produce leaves in July and still be standing in December is doing something most vegetables cannot.

Start seeds indoors about five weeks before your and around the . For a summer crop in the South, transplant in early spring as soon as the soil is workable. For a fall harvest — which tends to produce the sweetest, most tender leaves — transplant in mid to late summer, roughly ten to twelve weeks before your first expected frost. works if the soil is warm enough; collards reliably above 50 degrees.

Collards are heavy nitrogen feeders and respond well to generous soil preparation. Work a substantial amount of into the bed at planting, and every four to six weeks with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to keep the lower leaves from yellowing. The plant produces from the bottom of the stalk upward — as you harvest outer leaves, new ones emerge from the center. An underfed plant stops producing tender new growth and the remaining leaves become tough and fibrous.

Harvest by removing individual outer leaves, leaving the central growing point and at least four or five inner leaves intact. This allows the plant to continue producing for months. The leaves are ready when they're fully expanded but still a deep, even green. Yellow or pale leaves have usually run out of nitrogen. Avoid harvesting more than a third of the plant at one time — removing too many leaves slows recovery. After a frost, wait a day or two before harvesting; the leaves will have sweeter flavor as starches convert to sugars.

Cabbage worms and aphids are the main pest pressure. In the Southeast, where multiple generations of the white cabbage butterfly cycle through the season, the pressure is nearly continuous from late spring through fall. prevents infestation during the critical early weeks, but most gardeners eventually grow collards uncovered and manage with regular inspection and hand-picking. In heavy infestations, Bt spray handles larvae effectively. Aphid colonies on new growth can be dislodged with a strong water spray, though stressed or underfed plants tend to attract more aphids.

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Varieties worth knowing

Georgia Southern
80 days
The traditional Southern heirloom. Large, strap-shaped blue-green leaves. Very heat-tolerant. Slightly coarser texture than hybrid types but excellent flavor after frost.
Champion
75 days
Uniform, upright plants with large leaves. More heat- and cold-tolerant than Georgia Southern. One of the most popular commercial and home-garden varieties.
Disease resistance
downy mildew
Vates
75 days
Compact plant with blue-green, slightly crinkled leaves. Slower to bolt than taller types. Good cold hardiness — a reliable variety in northern gardens.
Morris Heading
80 days
An unusual type that forms a loose head resembling a large cabbage. Tender and mild. Best as a fall crop.
Top Bunch
65–70 days
A hybrid with upright growth and high yield. Bred for commercial production but excellent in the home garden. Holds its quality longer in warm weather than open-pollinated types.
Disease resistance
downy mildewblack rot
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What can go wrong

Yellowing lower leaves — nitrogen depletion
Older leaves on the lower stalk turn yellow and drop when the plant runs low on nitrogen. Side-dress with compost or a high-nitrogen fertilizer every four to six weeks during the season. This is especially common in sandy or leached soils.
Cabbage worm infestation
Multiple generations of cabbage butterfly larvae cycle through collard plantings, particularly in the Southeast. Check leaf undersides weekly for pale green eggs; larvae chew large ragged holes and can defoliate a plant quickly. Row cover or Bt spray manages pressure effectively.
Tough, bitter leaves
Leaves harvested during peak summer heat or from underfed, drought-stressed plants tend to be fibrous and strongly flavored. Consistent moisture, adequate nitrogen, and harvesting in the cooler parts of the day all improve texture and flavor.
Aphid colonies on new growth
Dense clusters of gray-green aphids build up on growing tips and young leaves. They are a particular problem in cool spring weather. Knock them off with water spray; severe infestations on young plants may require insecticidal soap.
Clubroot
Roots become swollen and malformed; plants wilt even in moist soil. A soil-borne disease with no cure. Rotate brassicas to a new bed every three to four years and choose resistant varieties in affected areas.
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Companions

Plant with
beetceleryonion
Keep apart
strawberrytomato
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How to propagate

Collards are primarily grown from seed but can also be propagated by rooting stem cuttings from side shoots. Seed is the standard approach, while stem cuttings can be a fun way to clone a favorite plant.

From seed
easy90%+ success rate
Direct sow in mid to late summer for fall harvest, or start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost for spring planting
Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in rows 18-24 inches apart. Thin seedlings to 18 inches apart. Germination takes 5-10 days at 65-75°F. Collards are one of the most heat-tolerant brassicas and also very cold-hardy, so they can be grown in a wide range of seasons. Flavor improves significantly after frost.
Stem cuttings
moderate50-70% success rate
Late spring through summer, when side shoots are actively growing
Cut a 4-6 inch side shoot from an established collard plant, remove the lower leaves, and place the cutting in a jar of water on a bright windowsill. Roots should appear in 1-2 weeks. Once roots are an inch long, transplant into moist soil and keep well-watered until established.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
2–4 lb leaves per plant over a long season
Per sq. ft.
0.75–1.5 lb at 18-inch spacing
Peak window
16 weeks

Cut-and-come-again — take outer leaves, let the center keep growing. Flavor improves after frost.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
7–10 days (wash, dry, bag)
Freeze
blanch 3 minutes, freeze in bags 8–12 months
Can
pressure can only (long process)
Dry
not recommended

Remove the tough central rib before cooking — or chop and cook longer.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
Collards produce well in PNW climates. The mild winters in zones 8 and 9 allow plants to stand through the season. They tend to receive less attention here than in the South, but can be a reliable year-round green.
Mountain West
A useful summer green at high elevation where other greens bolt. The cool nights slow bolting. Fall crops work in lower-elevation areas if transplanted in July.
Southwest
Primarily a cool-season crop here, planted in fall for winter and early spring harvest. The summer heat is too intense for most varieties. In higher-elevation areas, summer production may be possible.
Midwest
Spring transplanting produces summer crops. Fall crops from mid-summer transplants hold well into October and November. The cold hardiness is a real advantage — plants often outlast the last tomato by several weeks.
Northeast
Works well as a spring-planted crop that produces through summer and into fall. Cold hardiness means plants often stand through light frosts and produce into November. Cover plants in zones 5 and colder to extend the season.
Southeast
The default leafy green for summer gardens in the South. Tolerates heat and humidity that eliminates most other brassicas. Planting in late summer ensures a second harvest period when temperatures cool in fall.
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Sources

Native range: Mediterranean
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.