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herb · Poaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Lemongrass

Cymbopogon citratus

A tropical grass that produces citrus-scented stalks all summer, then returns indoors before the first frost.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a tropical grass that grows with startling speed once the soil warms. In a single season it can reach four feet tall and produce dozens of citrus-scented stalks — but it will not survive a frost, which means most gardeners north of zone 9 treat it as an with one important exception: you can dig up a division before the frost and keep it alive indoors through the winter.

The most practical way to start lemongrass is to buy a stalk with roots still attached from a grocery store or Asian market. Set it in a glass of water on a sunny windowsill, and in two weeks it will usually produce enough new roots to . A rooted stalk planted in spring becomes a harvestable clump by midsummer. from a nursery work the same way, and starting from seed is possible but slow — most gardeners skip it.

Wait to transplant until the soil is genuinely warm — four weeks after your is a safer bet than two. Lemongrass planted into cool soil will sulk for weeks and may develop rust-colored leaf tips, a sign that it is stressed. The same plant moved into seventy-degree soil will establish quickly and begin sending up new shoots within ten days. Full sun and consistent moisture produce the fastest growth; a dry week can slow the plant noticeably.

Harvest generously once the clump is established. Cut stalks at ground level when they are at least half an inch thick at the base — the lower white portion is what you want for cooking. Regular cutting encourages the plant to produce more stalks, and a mature clump can handle losing a quarter of its mass every few weeks. The outer stalks are tougher than the inner ones; peel away the fibrous outer layers until you reach the tender core.

Before the , dig up the entire clump and pot a division — a section with five or six stalks and a good root ball. Trim the foliage back to about six inches, water it well, and move it to a bright indoor spot. It will not grow much over the winter, but it will survive, and you can transplant it back outdoors the following spring. A lemongrass plant that overwinters indoors for two or three seasons tends to produce larger clumps each year than one started fresh from a grocery stalk.

The most common failure is leaving the plant outdoors too long in fall. A single night below freezing will kill the foliage and often damage the roots enough that the plant will not recover. Dig it up a week before you expect frost, not the day after.

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Varieties worth knowing

Common lemongrass
The standard grocery-store type. Reliable, vigorous, and widely available as rooted stalks.
West Indian lemongrass
Another name for Cymbopogon citratus. The citral content is high, making it ideal for cooking and tea.
Cymbopogon citratus (standard)
The botanical designation for the most commonly grown culinary lemongrass.
East Indian lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus)
Narrower leaves, slightly different flavor profile. Often grown for essential oil rather than cooking.
Compactus
A shorter variety that stays under three feet. Good for containers or smaller garden spaces.

Growth habit — pick before you buy seed

The same crop can grow as a compact bush, a sprawling vine, or something in between. Choose the habit that fits your space and how you want the harvest to arrive — all at once, or a steady trickle.

Clumping grass

Grows in dense clumps 3–4 feet tall. Divide every few years to rejuvenate and propagate.

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What can go wrong

Frost damage
Leaves turn brown and collapse after a freeze. Dig up and pot a division at least a week before the first expected frost — waiting until after the damage is done is usually too late.
Rust-colored leaf tips
Often a sign of cold stress from planting too early, or irregular watering. The plant usually recovers once conditions improve, but growth slows.
Slow establishment
Transplanting into cool soil — below sixty degrees — causes the plant to sit without growing. Wait until the soil is genuinely warm.
Yellowing lower leaves
Normal shedding of older foliage, especially in late summer. Not a problem unless the entire plant is yellowing, which usually means poor drainage or overwatering.
Small, thin stalks
Insufficient sun, poor soil, or lack of fertilizer. Lemongrass is a heavy feeder — side-dressing with compost or a balanced fertilizer mid-season tends to produce thicker stalks.
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Companions

Plant with
tomatopeppereggplantginger
Keep apart
mintfennel
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How to propagate

Lemongrass is most easily propagated by division or by rooting store-bought stalks in water. Both methods are straightforward and produce harvestable plants much faster than seed, which is rarely available.

Division
easy90%+ success rate
Late spring to early summer, once the plant is actively growing
Dig up an established lemongrass clump and use a sharp knife or spade to separate it into smaller divisions, each with several stalks and intact roots. Replant immediately, setting the base of the stalks at soil level. Water deeply and keep consistently moist until new growth appears. Divisions establish quickly in warm weather.
Stem cuttings
easy80%+ success rate
Any time of year if starting from store-bought stalks; spring and summer for outdoor growing
Purchase fresh lemongrass stalks with the base intact. Trim the tops to about 6 inches and place the base of the stalks in a jar with 1-2 inches of water. Set in a warm, sunny window and change the water every few days. Roots appear in 2-3 weeks, at which point you can plant in soil. Use stalks that still have a small amount of root base visible for best results.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
many stalks per mature clump — harvest as needed
Peak window
20 weeks

Tender perennial (Zone 9+); grown as annual elsewhere or overwintered indoors. A clump of 3–5 stalks in year 1 becomes a 30+ stalk clump by year 3.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
2–3 weeks (wrap in a bag)
Freeze
chop or bruise and freeze — preferred method, retains flavor
Can
not applicable
Dry
slice and dry at 95°F — fair for tea, worse for cooking

Bruise the tender core before using — releases the essential oils.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
The cool marine climate west of the Cascades can make lemongrass slow to establish — waiting until early June to transplant, rather than late May, often produces faster growth. Overwintering indoors is essential; no part of the plant survives a PNW winter outdoors.
Mountain West
Short growing seasons at altitude can limit lemongrass production, especially above 6,000 feet where frost can arrive in early September. Growing in a container that can be moved indoors extends the season and makes overwintering simpler.
Southwest
The intense heat and long growing season of the low-desert Southwest suit lemongrass well, and it can often be left outdoors year-round in the warmest areas. Consistent watering is essential during the hottest weeks to prevent the plant from slowing growth.
Midwest
Lemongrass grows vigorously in Midwest summers, but the season is relatively short. Transplanting after the soil is reliably warm — typically late May — and digging up a division in September before the first frost gives the plant time to produce well.
Northeast
Lemongrass tends to perform well in Northeast summers once the soil warms, but the growing season is short. Transplanting in late May or early June and digging up a division by mid-September gives the plant time to establish and produce harvestable stalks before frost.
Southeast
The long warm season and high humidity suit lemongrass well. In the lower South it can be left in the ground year-round in zones 9 and warmer; elsewhere, digging up a division in late October before the first frost is the standard practice.
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Sources

Native range: Tropical Asia (likely India or Sri Lanka)
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.