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vegetable · Amaryllidaceae
Updated Apr 2026

Scallion

Allium fistulosum

The fast crop for impatient gardeners — harvestable in two months and amenable to continuous succession.

Scallion

A scallion is not a young onion, though many gardeners treat them as the same thing. True bunching onions — Allium fistulosum — never form a bulb no matter how long you leave them in the ground. They stay slender, grow tall green tops, and can be harvested at any size from pencil- to finger-thick. An ordinary bulbing onion harvested young will give you something that looks like a scallion, but the flavor is sharper and the white part tends to be shorter.

The real advantage of scallions in a home garden is speed and . Sixty days from seed to table is fast enough that you can sow a new row every three to four weeks from early spring through midsummer and have a continuous supply well into fall. them four weeks before your — they can handle cold soil better than most crops — and plant them densely, about two inches apart. Thin as you harvest.

One common mistake is planting a single large bed all at once and then watching half of it in a heat spell. Scallions tolerate cool weather well but can send up a flower stalk quickly when temperatures swing from cold to hot in spring. The stalk makes the core woody and the flavor harsh. Succession planting solves this — you're never relying on a single bed to carry you through the season, and any planting that bolts is replaced by the next sowing.

If you buy scallions at the grocery store and the roots are still attached, you can replant the white ends in soil and they will resprout. Cut the green tops an inch above the roots, set the bases in a pot or a garden row with the roots buried, and they'll send up new growth in a week or two. This is not a long-term production method — the regrowth tends to be thinner and tougher after the second or third cutting — but it buys you a few weeks of green onions while your next sowing is coming up.

Scallions tend to be unbothered by most pests, though onion maggots can tunnel into the base of the plant and cause it to rot from the roots up. You'll see yellowing, wilting tops and a soft, foul-smelling base. from sowing through the first few weeks helps prevent the adult flies from laying eggs near the plants. Pull and discard any affected plants immediately — do not them.

Harvest when the tops are six to eight inches tall, or let them grow longer if you prefer a stronger flavor. Pull the whole plant rather than cutting the top — a scallion that is cut and left in the ground may resprout once, but the new growth tends to be thin and the core turns woody. Better to pull it, replant the next succession, and keep the cycle moving.

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Varieties worth knowing

Evergreen Hardy White
Cold-tolerant bunching onion. Overwintered plantings can produce very early spring harvests.
Ishikura
Japanese variety with long white shanks and mild flavor. A workhorse for continuous planting.
Red Beard
Striking red-purple skin with white interior. Slightly sweeter than white varieties.
Tokyo Long White
Slender, fast-growing. Good for dense succession sowings in small spaces.
Parade
Uniform, upright growth. Handles heat better than most and tends to resist bolting.
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What can go wrong

Onion maggots
Larvae burrow into the base, causing yellowing tops and a soft, rotting core. Row cover from sowing prevents the adult flies from laying eggs. Pull and destroy affected plants.
Bolting
A sudden warm spell after cold weather can trigger flowering, making the core woody and the flavor harsh. Succession planting spreads the risk — any bed that bolts is replaced by the next sowing.
Onion thrips
Tiny insects that suck sap from the leaves, leaving silvery streaks and stunted tops. More common in hot, dry weather. Hard sprays of water can knock them down; insecticidal soap may help if pressure is high.
Neck rot
Soft, watery decay at the base of the plant, often after prolonged wet weather. Good drainage and spacing for airflow tend to prevent it. Remove affected plants promptly.
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Companions

Plant with
carrotlettucetomatostrawberry
Keep apart
beanpeasage
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How to propagate

Scallions (green onions) can be grown from seed or propagated by dividing clumps of perennial bunching types. Division is fast and easy for established perennial scallions, while seed offers the widest variety selection.

From seed
easy85%+ success rate
Direct sow in early spring 3-4 weeks before last frost, or start indoors 8-10 weeks early; sow in succession every 3 weeks
Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, thickly in rows or bands 2-3 inches wide, spacing rows 12 inches apart. Germination takes 7-14 days. Scallions do not need thinning — crowding is fine since you're harvesting the whole plant young. For a continuous supply, sow small batches every 2-3 weeks from early spring through late summer.
Division
easy95%+ success rate
Spring or fall for perennial bunching onion types
Lift established clumps of perennial bunching onions (such as Evergreen Hardy White) and pull apart individual or small groups of plants with roots attached. Replant immediately 2-3 inches apart in prepared soil and water well. Divisions establish quickly and begin producing new offsets within weeks. This method gives you an instant, self-perpetuating patch of scallions.

Harvest & keep

Expected yield
Per plant
1 stalk per plant; many over the season from a bunch planting
Per sq. ft.
1–2 lb at 1-inch spacing

Bunching onions can be harvested at any stage. Cut-and-come-again types regrow from the base.

Keep the harvest
Refrigerator
7–14 days (wrap in damp paper towel, bag)
Freeze
chop and freeze — best preservation
Can
not common
Dry
slice and dry at 95°F for rehydrating

Stand cut bunches in a jar of water on the counter or root in water indefinitely.

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How it grows where you live

Pacific Northwest
The cool, damp springs west of the Cascades tend to suit scallions well — they can be sown very early and often perform better than crops that need warm soil. Onion maggots can be a persistent problem in western Oregon and Washington; row cover from sowing is nearly essential.
Mountain West
Short growing seasons at altitude are not a limitation for scallions — the fast maturity and cold tolerance make them one of the more reliable crops in mountain gardens. Sowings can often begin as soon as the soil thaws.
Southwest
In the low desert, scallions are typically grown in fall, winter, and early spring — summer heat causes rapid bolting and poor flavor. Sowings from September through February tend to give the best results.
Midwest
Scallions can be sown very early in the Midwest — often by late March — and succession plantings through June tend to give a steady harvest. Onion thrips are occasionally a problem in hot, dry summers.
Northeast
Scallions are well-adapted to the Northeast's spring and fall seasons. Sowings can begin as soon as the ground can be worked in March or April, and fall crops sown in August often produce through light frosts into November.
Southeast
Spring and fall are the productive seasons for scallions in the Southeast — summer heat tends to cause bolting and toughen the flavor. Fall sowings in late August or September often produce better-quality scallions than spring plantings.
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Sources

Native range: Central and western China
A general reference — results depend on your soil, weather, and season.