Why aren't my seeds germinating?
Cold soil is the most common culprit — most vegetable seeds stall below 60°F, and old or improperly stored seed may not be viable at all.
Soil temperature is the variable most gardeners overlook. A packet of tomato or pepper seed that germinates in 5 days at 80°F may take 20 days at 65°F or simply fail. Most warm-season crops need soil between 70°F and 85°F to germinate reliably. A cheap soil thermometer tells you more than any calendar date.
Seed viability drops with age and poor storage. Onion and parsnip seed are typically only good for one season. Tomato and pepper seed stored in a cool, dry place can last 4–5 years. If you're unsure about a batch, do a germination test: fold 10 seeds in a damp paper towel, seal it in a bag, and keep it at room temperature for the number of days on the packet. If fewer than 6 sprout, the seed is marginal — plant more densely or buy fresh.
Damping off is the third possibility: the seeds germinated, the seedlings emerged, and then a fungal pathogen (most often Pythium or Rhizoctonia) rotted the stem at or just below the soil line. You may see a ring of collapsed seedlings that look pinched off at the base. Prevention is a combination of sterile seed-starting mix, good airflow, and not overwatering — the pathogen thrives in soggy conditions.
Planting depth also matters. Most small seeds need only light covering — 2–3 times their diameter. Tiny seeds like lettuce and basil often need light to germinate and should be barely pressed into the surface, not buried.
- TomatoThe warm-season anchor of the summer garden.
- PepperA tropical perennial grown as an annual — patient, slow, and particular about warmth.
- BasilThe summer companion — to tomatoes, to pasta, and to the gardener with a south-facing window.
- CarrotA root crop that rewards patience and deep, rock-free soil.
- LettuceA cool-season leaf crop that thrives in spring and fall, sulks in summer heat.
- Bird DamageBerries pecked or missing, seeds scratched from beds, and seedlings dislodged — birds feeding on ripe fruit, seeds, or soil grubs.
- Brown Marmorated Stink BugSunken, corky dimples on fruit and pods caused by a mottled brown shield bug feeding through the skin.
- Cabbage MaggotBrassica transplants wilting and dying as white maggots tunnel through roots at or below the soil line.
- Carrot Rust FlyRusty tunnels through carrot and parsnip roots made by small white maggots feeding inside the root.
- Corn Earworm / Tomato FruitwormCaterpillars eating corn kernels from the tip; same species bores into tomato and pepper fruit. Often called 'tomato fruitworm' when found on tomato.
- Why are my seedlings falling over?Seedlings collapsing at the soil line is almost always damping off, a fungal disease that attacks stems in wet, poorly ventilated conditions.
- Why are my seedlings tall, pale, and floppy?Seedlings stretch toward inadequate light — the fix is moving them closer to the light source, not giving them more hours of light.
- When should I start seeds indoors?Count backward from your last frost date using the seed packet's weeks-to-transplant number — most tomatoes and peppers go in 6–8 weeks before last frost.