Skip to content
leavesUpdated Apr 2026

Why are the lower leaves on my tomatoes turning yellow?

Lower-leaf yellowing on tomatoes is most often early blight, normal leaf senescence, or nitrogen deficiency — the pattern and timing tell you which one you're dealing with.

The lowest leaves on a tomato plant are the most likely to be affected by early blight, a fungal disease caused by Alternaria solani. It starts as yellowing, then small dark spots with concentric rings (a target-board pattern) appear. The yellowing begins on the oldest, lowest leaves and moves steadily up the plant over the season. It is almost always present to some degree by mid-summer in humid climates — it's worth managing, not panicking over.

Normal senescence — the plant simply aging and shedding lower leaves — looks similar but without the dark spots. As a tomato plant matures and fruit develops, it redirects resources upward and the lowest leaves naturally yellow and drop. This is most noticeable after the plant has been in the ground 4–6 weeks and is growing well. If the leaves above the affected zone look healthy and the spots aren't ringed, this is likely just the plant doing its job.

Nitrogen deficiency also yellows lower leaves but does so more uniformly — pale yellow-green without spots, moving upward. It often appears in plants growing in poor or sandy soil that hasn't been amended, or in plants that have been in the same container soil for many weeks. A side-dressing of compost or a dilute liquid fertilizer typically resolves it within a week or two.

The management response to early blight is mulch (prevent soil splash onto leaves), remove affected leaves as soon as they're spotted (don't compost them), and maintain consistent watering at the base rather than overhead. Copper fungicide sprays can slow the spread in severe cases but won't eliminate the disease.

Connected