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Why are my carrot seeds not coming up?

Carrots are slow to come up and need a soil surface that stays moist the whole time, often two to three weeks. If the top layer dries out or crusts, the seedlings die or can't push through. Cold soil slows them further, sowing too deep buries them, and seed more than about three years old often fails.

Based on Utah State University Extension and Oregon State University Extension Service · Updated Nov 2026

What to do now

Mildest step first.

  1. Give it time if the soil is cool; carrots can take 2 to 3 weeks to come up in spring.
  2. Test old seed: roll 10 seeds in a damp paper towel, and if 6 or fewer sprout, buy fresh.
  3. Resow ¼ inch deep, cover the seed with vermiculite, compost or fine sand instead of soil, and keep the surface moist.
  4. Lay damp burlap or a light board over the row, and lift it as soon as you see green.

Not sure this is it? Check other carrot problems

Carrots are slow

Carrots take longer to come up than most vegetables, and many rows get written off a few days before they emerge. Utah State University Extension says carrot seed germinates best at 55 to 65°F and takes 14 to 21 days to appear. Oregon State University's germination table shows how much soil temperature matters: about 51 days at 41°F, 17 days at 50°F, 10 days at 59°F, and 6 to 7 days between 68 and 86°F. Carrots can be sown once the soil reaches 40°F, but in cold early-spring soil, a wait of three weeks or more is normal. Check the soil with a thermometer before you decide the row failed.

Dry or crusted soil

Carrot seed is tiny and sits near the surface, so it dries out fast. The University of Saskatchewan's gardening program says the seed needs consistent moisture from sowing until it germinates, and that newly germinating seedlings may die if the soil dries out at any point. Drying out is a common reason a row comes up patchy or not at all. Crusting is the other: Clemson Extension says it's hard to get a stand if the soil is crusty, and Utah State says crusting soils limit emergence. Water lightly and often, once or twice a day in warm, windy weather, so the top stays damp but not soggy.

Too deep, or old seed

Carrots should be sown shallow. Utah State recommends ¼ inch deep, and Clemson suggests covering the seed with only about ⅛ inch of vermiculite, sawdust or potting soil instead of garden soil. Seed buried deeper may never reach the surface. Seed age matters too. The University of Illinois Extension's seed life chart gives carrot seed about 3 years when it's stored cool and dry. For an older packet, roll 10 seeds in a damp paper towel, seal it in a bag, and keep it somewhere warm. Illinois says if 7 to 9 sprout, sow more thickly; if 6 or fewer sprout, buy new seed.

Heat and wind

In a late-spring sowing, heat can be the problem. Utah State says temperatures above 80°F reduce germination, and Clemson says carrot seed won't germinate when the soil is above 95°F. Hot weather also dries the surface faster, so water more often. On sandy soil, wind can do damage of its own: the University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension notes that blowing soil particles can cut down tender, germinating carrot seedlings. If seedlings did come up and then toppled or vanished, the problem came after germination; damping-off is a common cause, covered on its own page.

Getting the next row up

Sow on the surface, then cover with a fine material that won't crust. Utah State suggests compost or fine sand, and Clemson suggests vermiculite; Clemson adds that mixing the tiny seed with dry sand helps spread it evenly. Saskatchewan suggests covering the row with a layer or two of damp newspaper, damp burlap or a light board to hold moisture, and removing it as soon as seeds germinate so the seedlings get light. Utah State also suggests sowing radishes with carrots: radishes come up in about a week, mark the row and help break the crust. carrots to 2 to 3 inches apart once they're 1 to 2 inches tall.

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